Travel: Venice, Italy
Photo: Yaj Malik
Magic, pure and simple
Venice is so breathtaking, it is impossible to be objective about it
ALL of Venice is ablaze with lights at night. The dark emerald waters of the lagoon lap against decrepit walls. As our vaporetto (water taxi) glides past old palazzos, open windows permit us to look directly into parlours with old brocade upholstery and beamed roofs, each one lit up with Murano glass chandeliers that surpass description.
At waterside restaurants, people sit sipping Bellinis (sparkling wine with peach infusions) and the air is rent by the sound of laughter and music.
At night, Venice wraps herself in enchantment. This is magic, pure and simple.
Great ambience
Just half-an-hour earlier, we’d been sitting at an outdoor café in St Mark’s Square, some brave souls downing grappa, which originates here, others playing safe with wine, listening to a jazz quartet playing “Unchained Melody”.
The lights from the shops skirting the square gleamed off the golden winged lions atop the poles; the red brick Bell Tower stood silent sentinel to the pavement artists, and the fluttering wings of the ubiquitous pigeons set up a rhythm all their own. That, too, was magic.
The next morning, we find Venice by day is just as magical as it is by night.
Today, the waters are a celadon green, the gaily-striped poles where boats are moored look festive and the Rialto Bridge is packed with people in a manner reminiscent of Indian crowds; seemingly, all of the 63,000 citizens of Venice are out on the bridge.
We are cruising the Grand Canal. This ribbon of water has an average depth of nine feet and winds four kilometres from the Ferrovia (train station) to Piazza San Marco, passing 200 opulent palazzos in its course.
It’s a passing parade of spectacular buildings and baroque churches, and by the time one docks, one is on sensory overload.
On the quay are mime artistes dressed like Venetian nobles, masked ladies, muses and priests. We stop by a Murano glass factory and watch the glass-makers and check the exquisite ware, catching our breath both in delight and at the price tags.
Getting lost in the labyrinthine lanes of Venice is something of an inevitability, unless you are with a tour group.
The city is confusingly divided into six districts, each district subdivided into 38 parishes. Getting lost also means coming upon great little tratorrie.
It’s primarily about seafood, of course. The exotica includes soft-shell crabs fried in an egg-and-Parmesan batter, tender baby cuttlefish stewed in their ink and tomato sauce, eel cooked on a bed of bay leaves.
The vegetarian soul finds solace in the many versions of the famous risotto; the vegetables are sharp and delicious, the pasta great, and the thick bean soup, a must-try. For dessert it’s Venetian tiramisu, washed down with prosecco, a local wine.
The core
Ultimately, all streets lead back to St Mark’s Square. St. Mark the evangelist is the patron saint of Venice and his remains are buried in St. Mark’s Basilica.
The Basilica also houses the Pala d’Oro, covered with more than 3,000 precious stones and enamel icons inlaid in gold, arguably the most stunning altar screen you will ever set your eyes on. Atop the Basilica are the famous four copper horses believed to have been brought away from Constantinople.
The Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace) next to the Basilica was the Doge’s residence, the seat of many important political and social institutions.
A major tourist attraction is the 17th century Bridge of Sighs traversed from inside the Palace; prisoners who passed through on their way to the prison cells would catch a tantalising glimpse of the sparkling waters of the lagoon and heave many a wistful sigh.
The Bell Tower of St. Mark, with its five huge cast-iron bells, and the Clock Tower which shows the passing of 24 hours, as well as the Zodiac and the phases of the moon, are the other Square attractions.
Every lagoon has its undertow. And so there is talk of Venice being a glorified sewer, a place chock-full of thieves and pickpockets, of decaying grandeur and a doubtful future. It’s a matter of perception.
For years now, the city called La Serenissima has set the heart of even the most jaded traveller beating a wild tattoo. It is a city thrumming with possibilities, and when you leave, you know you will leave a bit of that aforementioned heart behind.
Written about in a hundred novels, depicted in great detail in as many films, yet the Venice you see remains exclusively your Venice.
FACTFILE
The mainland has a train station, the Santa Lucia station, serviced by frequent trains.
The nearest airport is Marco Polo airport, 13 kms from the city.
Except for the months of June, July and August, the rest of the time the weather stays pleasant.
The water-bus service from the mainland is a cheap mode of transport. Vaporettos cost less than the glamorous but expensive gondolas.
Venice should only be seen on foot and with enough time to spare, so do pack sturdy walking shoes
http://www.hindu.com/mag/2006/02/19/stories/2006021900170800.htm
This ran in THE HINDU of 19 Feb 2006.
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Sheila Kumar • February 19, 2006